Birria, Birria, I just met a dish named Birria (with apologies to the late Stephen Sondheim): Where to get the dish in Greeley
Owner Jorge Fregoso stands behind the bar at family-run Doña Maria Birrieria, a new birria restaurant in Greeley. Featuring a range of birria presentations, there is also a wide selection of familiar Mexican foods and a full bar. Photo by Emily Kemme.
By Emily Kemme
Just last summer, I made the acquaintance of a new taco style. Called “birria,” this Mexican stew from the state of Jalisco is traditionally prepared with goat or beef shoulder. The meat is marinated with guajillo and ancho chiles married to tomatoes, onions, garlic, cumin, Mexican oregano, bay leaves and thyme; after slow-cooking for up to 8 hours, you are rewarded with pull-apart tender meat and a beautiful, red-tinged consomé.
It’s that brothy consomé which transports this taco style to an entirely new level of taco-eating ecstasy. And suddenly, the name “taco” will never be the same.
That’s because, before stuffing soft corn tortillas with shredded beef or goat — and melty mozzarella cheese — they’re bathed in this red consomé; it stains the tortilla with an oily, earthy, umami essence you’ll taste in your dreams. To make it more memorable, many birrierias add a cup of broth with the tacos for extra dipping opportunities.
A note of caution: eating birria tacos is not for those who want to keep their clothing pristine. That’s the cost of love.
Birria is a relatively new sensation in the United States
The fact that I only just became aware of birria is somewhat of an enigma, given the raging popularity of Mexican food in our state. Birria is relatively new to the United States, becoming a sensation in the early 2000s in California and Tijuana, Mexico, thanks to taco trucks and street carts.
My first taste of birria was precisely because of a local Greeley taco truck: E & R’s Birria Tacos, owned by Ruth Garcia and her husband, Eric Rodriguez. Garcia learned the technique from her mom, and said she enjoys bringing the authentic food and culture of Guadalajara, Jalisco to her Colorado customers.
Birria comes in many formats at Doña Maria Birrieria in Greeley. Featured is the Pizza Birria and birria tacos with a side order of consomé for extra dipping. The tortillas have a red tinge because they’re bathed in the consomé before stuffing or topping with shredded goat meat or beef. Photo by Emily Kemme.
But historically, the dish dates back to the 16th century, when Hernán Cortés landed in the New World with his Spanish soldiers in 1519. They brought with them domesticated animals native to Europe, including goats, whose meat was considered unpalatable, or “birria,” — meaning “worthless” in Spanish.
The indigenous peoples of Mexico found that, with lengthy cooking, goat meat was very tasty. Adding liquid to the stew came later — hundreds of years later. It wasn’t until the 1950s when the dish became known for its consomé, which, as I’ve already alluded to, you can’t live without.
There are several shops in Greeley where birria is served; the newest is Birrieria Doña Maria, 1825 9th St., a quaint restaurant with walls painted lime green that replaces Capri, an Italian restaurant.
Family run and open for several months, the full Mexican menu features familiar favorites like burritos, tortas, quesadillas, caldos (soups), seafood ceviche and barbacoa, another slow-cooked meat presentation that can be served on tortillas.
Birria is famous in Mexico because it’s not easy to make, Doña Maria owner Jorge Fregoso said. The chiles are combined with tomatoes, onion, garlic and the other spices to create adobo: the marinade in which the meat rests for a day or sometimes longer, Fregoso said. His restaurant’s recipe originated with his grandparents in Jalisco.
Doña Maria Birrieria offers a full bar. Try this refresher, the Cantarito, the drink of Jalisco: tequila, grapefruit and lime juice topped with grapefruit soda. Photo courtesy of Jorge Fregoso.
Many ways to serve the dish
Birria comes in many formats at Doña Maria and is available with traditional goat meat or beef. To decide whether you like the taste, tacos can be ordered individually. They’re dipped in consomé as part of the preparation, but if you want more for dipping (and guaranteed pant-splattering), order it separately. Trust me, you’ll want to order more consomé: there is never too much.
The Platillo de Birria comes with rice and beans alongside folded tacos, consomé and fresh condiments like sliced radishes, diced onions and cilantro to sprinkle on top of the tacos, adding texture and lightness. Quesadilla birria also comes with fresh condiments, as does the Pizza Birria. Or order birria served in a bowl of consomé like a stew. Portions are generous, so consider sharing.
The full bar serves a wide range of margaritas, including the mango fire and jalapeño margs: both offer a fruity, tart counterpoint with subtle heat to balance the rich broth and succulent meats. For a refresher, try the Cantarito, the drink of Jalisco: tequila, grapefruit and lime juice topped with grapefruit soda. There’s also a full range of Mexican and domestic beer and aguas frescas, a blend of fresh fruits, water and a pinch of sugar. Try horchata, a whirl of white rice combined with milk and hints of cinnamon sugar. For a tart and lightly sweet aqua fresca, order the Jamaica, made with infused hibiscus flowers.
Fall in love with birria
Doña Maria Birrieria
Where: 1825 9th St., Greeley, CO 80631
Hours: Mon 10:00 a.m. - 8:00 p.m. | Tue - Sat 10:00 a.m. - 9:00 p.m. | Sun 10:00 a.m. - 7:00 p.m.
Contact: 970-515-5803 | https://birrieriadonamaria.com
Dine-in; take-out; online ordering; ample parking
E & R’s Birria Tacos (food truck)
Contact: 970-573-8970 | garcia83ruth@yahoo.com | Follow them on Facebook for dates, locations and times