Bánh mì at New Pho in Evans might be the best version of a submarine sandwich out there

The bánh mì is a fusion of French and Vietnamese cuisines, resulting in a submarine sandwich served on crusty French bread and topped with fresh and pickled vegetables, herbs and grilled meats. Photo by Emily Kemme.

By Emily Kemme

I thought I’d gotten the name of every submarine sandwich on the planet figured out — that’s every variation possible from any culture that ever sank their teeth into a long, chewy loaf of crusty French bread layered with any number of ingredients beneath the sun imaginable — and then decreed: this is good! We must name a new sandwich after our version, our dialect, our nation!

Because, you see, there’s the Submarine (or Sub) (it makes sense, it resembles an underwater vessel of the same name); Hero; Hoagie; Grinder (possibly labeled because it’s often made with ground beef in meatball form); Po’Boy (from N’awlins, featuring fried oysters, shrimp or catfish, and likely Louisiana hot sauce); a Rocket (so shaped); Torpedo (ditto); Dagwood (of comic strip fame); Zeppelin (another form of transportation, this one airborne); and then there’s the Italian Sandwich. It’s the generic version of a long, bulky roll stuffed with whatever you’re hungry for.

 So, I thought I had the names down pat, but then I walked into one of my favorite pho shops in Greeley and discovered they sold bánh mì. 

Although this particular little storefront in Evans has been known by many names over the last few years (at last count, I think it’s on the fourth iteration of the concept), with this most recent — New Pho — there might be staying power. I certainly hope so, because in addition to serving steaming bowls of beef broth and noodles you can order topped to your liking, New Pho serves báhn mì.

This is a sandwich much like the others above-mentioned, but it comes from Vietnam. Presented on a baguette, the Vietnamese sandwich is a fusion of Vietnamese and French cuisine.

People eat what is most familiar. When the French conquered and colonized Vietnam beginning in 1858, settling in the northern capital of Hanoi, they brought their cuisine with them.

One result was the French soup known as “pot au feu,” or “pot on the fire,” a preparation of beef bones — often oxtails — with long simmering of cartilage and marrow to make a thin, richly flavored broth. Called “pho,” pronounced “fuh,” this soup with thin rice noodles was popular with Chinese and Vietnamese laborers and sailors working on merchant ships along the Red River corridor, the river edging Hanoi. These days, pho is popular with anyone who loves brothy noodle soup.

Another notable French-Vietnamese cooking collision is this sandwich.

The sandwiches start off on a crusty French baguette that has an airy interior texture. Bánh means bread, often wheat bread, in Vietnamese. 

The usual presentation includes meat, vegetables — fresh and pickled — and the sliced bread is prepared with pâté, mayonnaise or butter. At New Pho, butter is the spread of choice; it imparts a sweet creaminess to the sandwich, binding but not overpowering the other flavors.

Where the bánh mì stands out is in its toppings: sandwiches are served with sliced cucumber, shredded carrots, fresh cilantro and jalapeños, making the base a bright tasting mouthful before any meat is added. Choose from grilled chicken, pork, beef or shrimp, or make it a combo. The veggie option is made with tofu.

A bowl of pho at New Pho in Evans is delicate and perfumed -- in short, a perfect bowl of beef broth and noodles. Photo by Emily Kemme.

If you’re hankering for soup, along with a full selection of traditional pho protein toppings (steak, brisket, tendon, tripe and meatballs, plus a handful of others, including oxtail), the noodle soups come with a complimentary plate of bean sprouts, Thai basil, jalapeños and limes to garnish your bowl. 

The veggies add layers of texture, with heat from peppery basil and jalapeños. Limes add brightness and acidity to balance the umami base. Continue to personalize your bowl of pho with traditional condiments, including a squeeze of pungent, spicy Sriracha and sweet hoisin sauce. The bottles are provided on the tables. But if you’re looking for more heat, order New Pho’s spicy pho broth and accessorize from a spicier starting point.

The restaurant also features noodle bowls with grilled meat, fried rice and Vietnamese style chow mein. As with most Vietnamese cuisine, it’s light and fresh tasting thanks to minimal amounts of cooking oil; ingredients are highlighted with fish sauce, which defines flavors instead of coating foods with heavy sauce. This cooking method is evident with New Pho’s impeccably fried spring rolls. 

The biggest problem you’ll have when sitting down to order is making a decision. The bottom line: choices this good are always welcome.

What to know when you visit New Pho

Location: 3230 23rd Ave., #330 in Evans

Hours: Monday through Saturday 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. | Sunday 11 a.m. to 7 p.m.

Contact: (970) 702-2187 | Website at New Pho

Don’t miss: pho, bánh mì, eggrolls, Vietnamese iced and hot coffee, boba smoothies and milk tea | take-out and delivery available