Fonta’s is Greeley’s square cut pizza spot, serving up 55 years of tradition

Tracy and Troy Dilka stand with Fonta’s Pizza founder, Fontas Fafoutis. Courtesy photo.

By Emily Kemme

Pizza is one of those comfort foods that reliably lands in this category partly because of what it looks like: it’s round. There’s none of that hesitancy when ordering one, as in, “I wonder what my pizza is going to look like from this restaurant?”

Similarly, pizza is most often cut into pie-shaped wedges before serving. A large pizza can easily be divided into eight pieces, each with a wide rim of crust and tapering allotments of toppings — those goodies that make pizza the delicious, varied food it is.

But there are some pizza places that cut their round pizzas into squares, which Troy Dilka, owner of Fonta’s Pizza Restaurant in Greeley, said gives you 16 pieces of pizza, each with the same amount of ingredients. Cutting a ‘za into squares also gives you ‘the nibblers,’ as he calls them. He also calls them ‘the one-biters.’ Psychologically, it feels like you’re getting more pizza, even though the area of a circle, whether cut into squares or triangles, has the same dimension. 

Mathematics aside, Dilka believes square cuts make pizza easier to handle, and offer more choices for crust and no-crust eaters.

Dilka takes his direction and philosophy from Fonta’s Greek founder, Fontas Fafoutis. In that way, although the original owner passed away in 2007, Fafoutis still maintains a presence at the pizza shop that has borne his name since he opened it in 1966.

Dilka started working at the restaurant when he was in high school, on September 28, 1985. He remembers the date because it was the season opener of Miami Vice. That first night he worked as a dishwasher; on the second night he was a cook because the previous cook quit. Nine years later, as Dilka was preparing to graduate from the University of Northern Colorado in Greeley and move on, he followed up on casual discussions with Fafoutis about taking over the business. Dilka signed on the dotted line April 1, 1994, a day he believes is as ironic as the day he started as a dishwasher.

“Over the years, like the 2008 housing crash, and these days with the pandemic, I thought I was such a fool to have gone into the business, but I haven’t regretted it. We’ve had ups and downs, every restaurant in town has,” Dilka said. 

But through the long years of listening to Fafoutis talk about good business practices, the man’s thick, Greek accent as he doled out steady, old-school advice stays with him. 

“Troy,” he told me, “you think about it ten times, if you think about it on the tenth time and it’s not good, don’t do it.” 

It’s advice that’s stood him well, Dilka said.

Pizzas at Fonta’s Pizza Restaurant in Greeley have traditionally been cut into squares. The reasons are varied: squares offer more choices for crust and no-crust eaters, they’re easier to handle, and psychologically, it feels like you’re getting more pizza. Featured is the Greek pizza. Photo by Emily Kemme.

Although Dilka and his wife, Tracy — they met at the restaurant, and also celebrated their wedding reception there in 1999 — have added a few menu items, the basic core is pizza and authentic Greek gyros.

If you visit Fonta’s or order take-out, you won’t find a restaurant that’s overly decorated or hypes its Greek foundation. Except for the galloping gladiator mural, the theme is relatively subdued for a Greek-inspired restaurant. What you will find are generously topped, thin-crust pizzas, house-made salad dressings and sauces, and if you order a gyro, completely authentic tastes.

Loaded with a lean blend of seasoned lamb and beef that Dilka gets in a partially cooked cone form and finishes off on the grill, the gyro meat is shaved on a machine into thin pieces and served on pita bread with tomatoes, feta cheese, onions and tsatziki sauce.

If you’re hankering for pizza, the pre-designed choices are numerous, although some of them don’t quite match up with their names. Like the Gladiator, for example (chicken, artichokes, cream cheese and fresh tomatoes), or Hercules, a combo that Tracy Dilka dreamed up. The mix of beef, cream cheese, pineapple, green chili and cashews are all great ingredients on their own, but aren’t typically found strewn together over a pizza. It might be a feat of strength to consume these ingredients in one mouthful — and it’s definitely a grand taste adventure of Herculean proportions —, but regardless of the reasons for the name, Dilka said it’s been a very popular choice.

Fonta’s has been serving up pizza, pasta, and sandwiches for over 55 years in Greeley. Courtesy photo.

You can also order another Greeley classic — the Bears (sausage, ham, green peppers and red onions) — and cheer on the Blue-and-Gold home team as the fall semester gets off and running.

When you’re eating a pizza, its traditional presentation gives rise to a whole lot of opinionated, emotional diatribes about what pizza should look like.

But whatever you sink your teeth into at Fonta’s, it’ll be made with care and be certain to fill you up. Sometimes, that’s what being in business for 55 years stands for — traditionally good and classically reliable. 

Which is probably how something that’s comfort food got its name in the first place, whether that food is cut into triangles, or squares.

About Fonta’s Pizza Restaurant 

Where: 2400 8th Avenue in Greeley

Contact: (970) 356-9200 | https://www.fontaspizza.com | Online ordering available

What: Greek, Italian and American cuisine | Pizza, sandwiches, pasta, pizza rolls, salads and starters | Full bar, beer on tap and bottled, wine | Dine-in or carry out